03 October 2021

Tanjung Puting Day 2 (Pondok Tanggui, Camp Leakey, Fireflies)


 

06:53. Day 2 of #rtanjungputingtravelog. Breakfast with a view. The breakfast was surprisingly and thankfully good! I enjoyed it. Perhaps the additional ingredients that made it special: the surroundings.

Do you ever wonder whether we took shower or not? Of course we did. There were two bathrooms in the boat where we could take shower as well as performing other rituals. Well, it's quite a clean one, but actually I didnt dare asking from where they could get the water. lol..

Nevertheless, taking a shower was necessary for me. Since well, we sweat a lot.

 

Pondok Tanggui

08:39. Arriving at our next destination: Pondok Tanggui. We came here to see, well, orangutan of course. It seems there were several klothok ahead of us! There was this elevated wooden platform where we walked on it that reminds of similar platform in Tarakan. It seems that it's built on top of swamp or mangrove. We had a brief halt at the ticketing office, I guess. Then entered the area to reach the feeding station.


08:55. Entering the forest. Well, it's clear that some part of the area was the result of reforestation, since the appearance was more like a garden, or field, instead of a forest, like low trees and shrubs. At the feeding station, there were already some people waiting. Waiting for orangutans of course, not us. A family of foreigner put some yellow sticker on the back side of their tshirts, that I guessed were mosquito repellent. I always curious on the effectiveness of this kind of repellent actually. Have you tried it?
9:07. Apparently, the orangutans hadn't been there. Well, we should be patiently waiting then. We saw some other guests heading to the right side, going a little bit far into the forest, perhaps around 200m. Being FOMO, so we followed them. and some others followed too! 
 
High above in the midst of leaves, there was an orangutan. I am not the kind of person who could easily spot an object from afar, so yeah, not easy to find the famous animal.
 
 I intentionally didn't post edited video with background music, since one of the special things of the forest atmosphere, for me is the sound of it. In the last 2 pics, there's a girl put a spider (I guess) on the palm of her hand. A brave one.



09:53. Some people were rushing to go back to the feeding station. Woohoo, there's an orangutan coming. Well, almost an hour late, but what can you expect from orangutan?

It's enjoying its meal gently, unlike the one that we met in Tanjung Harapan, that ate like no tomorrow.



Well, I only brought my cellphone, and no sophisticated camera (since I didnt have it as well). So, it's kinda difficult to take good and sharp photos. But @ratri_kartika got a nice idea where she combined her camera and binocular. Btw, itu pake kamera belakang ya, wk.



After finishing its meal, the orangutan then climbed down the platform and went back to the forest.

Well, upon watching (and listening) to the videos, I just realized, and I'm quite amazed at how silent the people were. No one talking, and what we could hear was only careful steps.

The orangutan then peacefully back to the middle of the forest again.



10:27. We also saw the Kantung Semar plants, which was apparently quite abundant. I rarely see the plant in my normal days. Well, rarely seeing it with your own eyes, doesn't mean it's near extinction. In the classification, it's even least concern.

Nepenthes ampullaria (Latin ampulla meaning "flask", aka kantong air semacam botol) is a very distinctive and widespread species of tropical pitcher plant.

Unlike other members of its genus, has evolved away from carnivory and the plants are partly detritivores (aka pemakan bangkai. I had to google it since udah lupa artinya apa), collecting and digesting falling leaf litter in their pitchers. Altho in its appearance, it's still kinda scary, perhaps due to thorns on its side.

It was an exciting sight seeing this plant.



Sometimes seeing a huge branch crossed horizontally made me want to sit above it. Well, not so fast. Ants in the forest are noticeably large.
And they have this kind of red body. not all of its body, but the rear part only, but it's kinda terrifying. So need to double check prior sitting.

Do you know how the forest's floor like? There were parts that the falling leaves piling up over the years, that it feels bouncy when you stepped on it. Having writing that, I'm not sure whether it's the correct reason why it can be bouncy as that. lol.



Got lost? Umm, not really. That sometimes we ought to follow the not so obvious trail. That's why I think we shouldn't go without a guide.

Off we go out of Pondok Tanggui



10:50. Back to our klotok, floating on Sekonyer River. Who would have thought, arriving at the klothok, we were served with this fresh and cold drink! Alhamdulillah.

Altho not that difficult, but trekking surely was tiring. We charged our energy by eating none other than pop mie, while waiting our lunch.

On the left and right side, we often saw wild animals like bekantan and birds.

Occasionally, there were houses that I couldn't help wondering, how does it like living in the middle of nowhere like that.

Last pic: that was how the view from inside the klotok look like: jemuran everywhere.
 

Camp Leakey




11:41. Entering Camp Leakey, the final and furthermost destination among three stations that we visited during our trip.

Camp Leakey Orangutan Rehabilitation Centre was founded in 1971 as the first place in Indonesia to become a rehabilitation centre for orangutans at Tanjung Puting Park Central Kalimantan Indonesia.

Camp Leakey was established by Dr. Biruté Galdikas (photo #2) and former spouse Rod Brindamour.

It was named after the legendary paleo-anthropologist, Louis Leakey (photo #3), who was both mentor and an inspiration to Dr. Galdikas.




Famous blackwater river! I never knew or expected that the river located far in the middle of the forest could be black. I always thought that water would be crystal clear and pristine. Well, apparently that's not always the case. Black water might be pure in a sense that it's not polluted.

Blackwater river is a type of river with a slow-moving channel flowing through forested swamps or wetlands. As vegetation decays, tannins (ini macam zat yg ada di akar atau batang tanaman) leach into the water, making a transparent, acidic water that is darkly stained, resembling black tea. 

So, it really depends on the type of soil or plants surrounding the river.



Never thought that I would encounter traffic jam in this very place. The river was narrow and there were klotoks halted in the middle of the river.

Curious we were, what's the cause of the traffic jam. Well, apparently the klotoks' passengers were watching the main object of the national park: Orangutan.

Yes, finally we met orangutan outside the feeding station, it's sitting on a branch of a tree, watching upon us.

Can you spot it?



12:54. Arriving at Camp Leakey. We saw some signages (good that nothing too glossy here), telling that we shouldn't swim on the river, since there're lots of crocodiles. Whoa! I knew that the guides told us that there were crocodiles. Some of us had already seen them as well. I hadn't seen it myself. And, reading the warning was just like confirming that the crocs were real!

To my surprise, many visitors were ahead of us. Not the fact that they were ahead of us, but seeing that actually MANY people in the MIDDLE OF NOWHERE was just unbelievable. I mean, from the way they acted, it's like they were Jakartans going to Taman Mini or Ragunan. Soo casual.

Well, perhaps for them, it's not that rural I guess.



Originally consisting of just two huts, Camp Leakey is now an assemblage of permanent wooden structures designed to provide a base for scientists, staff, students, and Park Rangers (kata wiki).



Carolyn Townson Information Center. There's a small building constructed as information center. I've tried to googling who Carolyn Townson is, but cannot find satisfying answer.

So, inside the information center, we found the facts about orangutan, as the result of research that has been held over decades.

There's an interesting family tree of orangutan, complete with their photographs, with very diverse names, from Robert to Siswoyo, from Princess to Siswi.




13:45. Heading to the feeding station. As mentioned before, the camp was founded by Galdikas. Do you know how it started? The first book she borrowed from the Toronto Public Library was a tale about a mischievous little monkey named Curious George. As a young child, her head was filled with visions of far off forests and exotic creatures.

Galdikas is graduated from UCLA, and a Professor at Simon Fraser University. In the field of primatology, Galdikas is recognized as a leading authority on orangutans.Prior to her field study of orangutans, scientists knew little about the species.

Leakey (her mentor) and the National Geographic Society agreed to establish a research facility in Borneo.




On the way to the feeding station, we did some foraging, lol. Of course our guide was the one who pointed out which plants or fruits that were edible.

Anyway, foraging (bhs Indo: meramban), is the activity of obtaining or seeking food, in this context, in forest.




Arrived at the feeding station, many people were already there. It was the largest crowd among 3 feeding stations that we visited during the trip. Maybe because it's Sunday? So the families were on holiday.

Waiting, waiting, and waiting.

The ones coming unfortunately not orangutan, but, celeng aka wild boar. Huft. And after looking some blog posts about Camp Leakey, it seems that wild boars are regular visitors at this feeding station.




15:29. One hour and a half from the schedule of feeding time (14:00). No orangutan was seen. I, and I guessed everyone, got bored.

I tried to read my kindle, then sat on my sandals, but still no orangutan. Some people then went back to their klotok. Sooo, now there's vacant chair for me.

I used the chair for lying down. Enjoying the moment, where I could stare at the sky in the middle of forest, listening to the sound of the birds and insects (and also the rangers who still tried calling the orangutan).




15:53. We gave up! Back to our klotok. On the way, saw a signage warned us to see orangutan encounter. Well, didnt see one. Anyway, thanks Camp Leakey!







16:10. NAT GEO moment! Swipe to see a crocodile eating a biawak! (what's english for biawak?). Yes, it's biawak, not chicken like when you feed crocs in croc park. We accidentally spotted it when our klotok was moving.

I really enjoyed my klotok lyfe, lying on a hammock, looking at the black water and plants on the riverside.




17:46. Chasing sunset



18:01. Such a beautiful sky, in a magnificent setting. and there was few minutes of "party" where like all insects and birds were shouting and chirping just before the night came. such a humbling experience




 

Fireflies

 
Chasing FIREFLIES aka kunang-kunang! There were thousands and thousands of fireflies decorating the Nypa trees on both sides of the river. Sooo beautiful. Twinkling and dancing in the dark of the night. and that night, we saw them A LOT. When was the last time you see fireflies?

I was aware that with regular camera phone, I wouldnt be able to capture it properly. So I didnt even bother.

and do you know the family of fireflies is called Lampyridae?

Moreover, I dont know whether it impacts the phototaking or not, but fireflies produce a "cold light", with no infrared or ultraviolet frequencies. Umm, should be fine kali ya. lol.

So we were singing, then, sleeping. lol. Of course with mosquito net, that preventing not only mosquito but all kind of strangers animals to sleep together with us.

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